tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55917956932292110162024-03-05T02:13:30.657-05:00My WorldMikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5591795693229211016.post-11563159881995983382011-08-11T13:55:00.008-04:002011-08-11T22:07:32.931-04:00A Discrete Time Piece<div class="MsoNormal">The Nixie Transistor Clock kit was designed by Keith Bayern and can be purchased from his website <a href="http://www.kabtronics.com/">http://www.kabtronics.com</a>. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOjW4XmqrxygiYzaaaRwWz0zdmS0x44Bzl5p-mUbplP9XWudvyNFAu1GzzjNb-MxmO5vD1DVcTjZhcioEAaQWYNIcQK4xro0ZgmffPnOPprLggBXVIW9z_YQzFn77y3R9R44DQ1TLQ0qs/s1600/IMG_0493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOjW4XmqrxygiYzaaaRwWz0zdmS0x44Bzl5p-mUbplP9XWudvyNFAu1GzzjNb-MxmO5vD1DVcTjZhcioEAaQWYNIcQK4xro0ZgmffPnOPprLggBXVIW9z_YQzFn77y3R9R44DQ1TLQ0qs/s320/IMG_0493.JPG" width="239" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The clock uses only discrete components (no integrated circuits) and consists of:</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><ul><li>215 Transistors</li>
<li>518 Diodes</li>
<li>472 Resistors</li>
<li>101 Capacitors</li>
</ul><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">The documentation covers:</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><ul><li><span style="font-family: Symbol;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Introduction</li>
<li>Unpacking instructions an parts list</li>
<li>Soldering instructions</li>
<li>Suggested build order</li>
<li>Parts identification</li>
<li>Theory of operation</li>
<li>Circuit description</li>
<li>Problem solving ideas</li>
<li>Circuit boards views</li>
<li>Schematics</li>
</ul><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">The manual states it should take about 20 hours to complete the kit. My build took 40 hours which in addition to parts loading and soldering, included counting, sorting and preparing parts for the assembly as well as inspection and test after part placement.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">My first suggestion before starting the kit build is to first read the manual and then read the manual. After you done you may want to read the manual!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Introduction has a warning about the 180-voltage source used by the nixies, which should not be taken lightly. The high voltage section is not built until near the end of the assembly and is assembled in a way that will limit major issues if there is a build problem.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The kit packaging is done well, with the various components separated into labeled bags. You should first make sure you have the correct number of components before you start the build. In many cases extra parts are included incase you make a mistake during assembly. <o:p></o:p><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">For each section built I counted out the number of parts needed and used a muffin pan to hold them. This helped make sure the proper part/value and correct number of parts was used for the section. Many of the parts are connected to a carrier tape. I found a pair of scissors worked nicely to separate parts from the tape.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdgYLhdJtD8YT7mRUvQWHOH6NnEW038xsGQXJCHhGECEr4gYeNLL2T19B75O_HhAugKTtith0fprH-cl55zNn7wRi0jddbh19YwUezbpWJ7hCfvG8yEEFKRwRfqKgNCLQvgVZAk4Znjcw/s1600/IMG_1187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdgYLhdJtD8YT7mRUvQWHOH6NnEW038xsGQXJCHhGECEr4gYeNLL2T19B75O_HhAugKTtith0fprH-cl55zNn7wRi0jddbh19YwUezbpWJ7hCfvG8yEEFKRwRfqKgNCLQvgVZAk4Znjcw/s320/IMG_1187.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="text-align: center;">The beer is optional. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div></div><div class="MsoNormal">If you have not done much soldering or are a bit rusty, you should make sure to read the soldering section and practice before you start. There are approximately 2900 connections and just one bad or intermittent joint can lead to a lengthy debug session. I would also suggest getting a good temperature controlled soldering iron. I bought the Hakko FX-888 iron for around $95 USD, which worked very well.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpoPw6Q-NbNbnYN11cnrxfYvjolWL9IwTqlXa8TZBgTYqhBiEsUQ_mWhgVG0igINXTnrWmQiCRlYQT13uN9-MmZfhVS1UBZc-YvoLwkKsAaOeD4KrYVHIt7OYh8A1glfdsX3ceZ3ybGco/s1600/fx888_MED.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpoPw6Q-NbNbnYN11cnrxfYvjolWL9IwTqlXa8TZBgTYqhBiEsUQ_mWhgVG0igINXTnrWmQiCRlYQT13uN9-MmZfhVS1UBZc-YvoLwkKsAaOeD4KrYVHIt7OYh8A1glfdsX3ceZ3ybGco/s320/fx888_MED.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Follow the suggested build order, which takes you from the power supply, frequency divider, time counters and decoders to the HV supply. In most cases after section is completed a test is performed to verify the proper operation. Do not continue until you are sure there are no problems. Pay attention to what part/value is being loaded as well as its orientation if it’s a transistor, diode and in some cases capacitor. The resistors do not have a polarity, however I inserted them with the tolerance band (gold) to the left or top to have a consistent look. This helps when you are reviewing the section and makes it look better. After all this is a piece of art!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">After finishing the power supply section I manage to insert one of the NPN (second row from bottom, second column from left next to large cap) in backwards which gave an unbalanced square wave into the prescaler. The ration for high to low was about 1 to 10. After fixing the NPN mounting, the input to the prescaler was a ratio where the low as 1.4 and the high as 1.8. I also managed to use the wrong resistor in 10 places when building the prescaler (I got to brush up on my part removing skills!). After doing that I double-checked my work as I went. The worst that happened afterwards was I forgot to insert some capacitors in a counter section, which caused the flip-flops not to flip and flop.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">A few other observations from my experience (using document version 1.2 PCB version 4 June 6, 2011):</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><ul><li>Make sure you have all the parts loaded in a section that will have the nixie’s point to point wiring done. You don’t want to cover the solder side with a bunch of wire before you solder in the parts.</li>
<li>Page 6 parts list has PCB version 3 listed and it should be version 4.</li>
<li>The picture in version 4 of the document is of the version 3 board.</li>
<li>The 01 Cap mounting missing from instructions on page 1.</li>
<li>Page 25 has section 9 listed as Tens of hours and should be tens of minutes.</li>
<li>Page 23 Should have a note stating that the HV transistors and the 22K resistors will be loaded after The HV power supply has been tested and nixie sockets MOUNTED (page 34).</li>
<li>Two 470 capacitors were included in the kit but only one was used. The schematic shows two 470’s used (C34 & C36) but the silk screen has one 470 and one .001. The silk screen is correct and the schematic (P65) should be updated.</li>
</ul><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Besides the earlier self-inflicted part insertion problems, I had a couple of other issues:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The hours counter did not count properly and it was because of noise on the flip-flops due to ringing. The manual does warn about this so it was the first thing I checked. The manual also indicates that this may only be an issue for the hour’s counter, which is what I found.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The second problem was with the diodes that optionally are used to turn off the display for a given set of hours. Regardless of which diode position I loaded for the hour turn off, the display always turned off. I put a 100K pull down from ground to the side of R287 opposite the base of Q125 and it fixed the problem. Apparently the signal diodes that are used in the kit leak a bit and the floating transistor base was triggered.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There is a section in the manual describing the various components that make up the kit. Knowing this section will help with the assembly.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The theory of operation, circuit description, circuit board views and schematics sections as well the problem solving ides section will be needed if you encounter a problem. The parts are represented by symbols on the silkscreen side of the PCB. This makes it very easy to identify what part goes were, however it makes matching the parts to the schematic difficult since the schematics use numbers such as Q125, R234, C101, etc. The layout is very orderly and you can visualize the individual flip-flops, logics gates, etc. which helps matching the schematic layout to the PCB layout.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
Here are some videos showing some of the testing.</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/d5FW1A9DkEw?hl=en&fs=1" width="425"></iframe><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Hld9iXre65I?hl=en&fs=1" width="425"></iframe><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">I measured the switching transistor case. The case was 135F with five active nixies and 160F when all six were active. The clock's power consumption is around 16 watts when the display is on and around 10 watts when the display is off. If you build a case for the clock be sure to have adequate ventilation.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ImKHqsRiNbYTVHYAfHU6gvwTGLk89WdJXZgnmheh3cE-bSSEQZiU7J4cT5icja7SzeBgmWUxMdwhegQR8h85tYJGLui4FN-1g2YvI0jw0DjR_6ohRkCayRvG2EfMclDOa8PxJ9EOCBg/s1600/IMG_0444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ImKHqsRiNbYTVHYAfHU6gvwTGLk89WdJXZgnmheh3cE-bSSEQZiU7J4cT5icja7SzeBgmWUxMdwhegQR8h85tYJGLui4FN-1g2YvI0jw0DjR_6ohRkCayRvG2EfMclDOa8PxJ9EOCBg/s320/IMG_0444.JPG" width="239" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="text-align: left;">I plan on making one small modification. Currently you must solder the display disable diodes for the given set of hours that you wish to turn off the display. This could get messy if you decide to change the hours. I found that a standard IC fits perfectly in the diode locations. I removed the socket pins that would align with the 12/24-hour diodes and soldered the sockets on the backside of the board. Now I can plug-in the display disable diodes, which will make future changes much simpler.</div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Building the kit and learning how it worked was fun plus it has a unique look. I am kind of sorry for the work to be over. I’ll just have to find the next project… <br />
<br />
My clocks collection can be found in my <a href="http://blog.planetbuckley.com/2011/02/cant-have-too-many-clocks.html">clock blog post</a>.</div></div></div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5591795693229211016.post-43815568297649612062011-05-09T09:10:00.001-04:002011-05-09T09:11:27.987-04:00Beers I Drink But Don't Make<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-xq96UTUkDWIHFIEwsiNZky_mjwhoOmO-yYww7kEkzmBybhR0UDdiOwBxb4HzCzj0DEbcifc68X18QrR6H9CwdfR1B8WQYIPY8zMRQdgDazaoBCRs6hZsn66fbn8XlXw_EOup2rnpaG4/s1600/IMG_0353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-xq96UTUkDWIHFIEwsiNZky_mjwhoOmO-yYww7kEkzmBybhR0UDdiOwBxb4HzCzj0DEbcifc68X18QrR6H9CwdfR1B8WQYIPY8zMRQdgDazaoBCRs6hZsn66fbn8XlXw_EOup2rnpaG4/s320/IMG_0353.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tyGlwe2KaWpMeDZOeiKLfPv5i36dA7XtkB-6xiAu2k8pa19gM77frchflfYK_D3pEEnSqlOBh7NHWTcfzYqy4bE71IRtHQ6wED33mPUsPBlTCR_-PsbovWmaGUpqF1HprQlEbhg9mj8/s1600/IMG_0568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tyGlwe2KaWpMeDZOeiKLfPv5i36dA7XtkB-6xiAu2k8pa19gM77frchflfYK_D3pEEnSqlOBh7NHWTcfzYqy4bE71IRtHQ6wED33mPUsPBlTCR_-PsbovWmaGUpqF1HprQlEbhg9mj8/s320/IMG_0568.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5591795693229211016.post-7812987623230736292011-05-07T09:18:00.011-04:002011-05-16T16:19:48.608-04:00Monochron Clock Game Of LifeAdafruit Industries sells a clock called the <a href="http://www.ladyada.net/make/monochron/">Monochron clock</a>. There are a few display styles such as Pong, Space Invaders and Seven Segment LED. My modification was to play John Conway's Game of Life. I based my code on the work done by <a href="http://daqq.eu/index.php?show=prj_game_of_life">David Gustafik</a>.<br />
<br />
A description of Life can be found at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conway's_Game_of_Life">Wikipedia.org</a>. The rules are simple:<br />
<br />
<ol><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Any live cell with fewer than two live neighbours dies, as if caused by under-population.</span></span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Any live cell with two or three live neighbours lives on to the next generation.</span></span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Any live cell with more than three live neighbours dies, as if by overcrowding.</span></span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Any dead cell with exactly three live neighbours becomes a live cell, as if by reproduction.</span></span></li>
</ol>I have two version of the game of life, one that scales the screen to 64x32 and the other uses that native resolution 128x64.<br />
<br />
<b>Life 64x32</b><br />
There are two arrays each 256 bytes. The first array contains the seed colony or the previous generation. The second array is populated by applying the life rules to the first array. After the new colony is created, it becomes the new display colony and the process repeats.<br />
<br />
Because of the 2KB RAM limitation of the<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> ATmega328, I limited the colony to 64x32. </span>The native Monochron display size is 128x64. I scaled this down to 64x32 squares where each square is made of native 2x2 pixels. The colony array is 64x26 to reserve some space at the bottom for the date and time display.<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Life 128x64</b></span><br />
2K of RAM would be required if the above double RAM buffer approach was used. Instead there is one 1K buffer in RAM and the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">LCD display is the second buffer. The LCD display is read into the RAM buffer which is processed using the life rules and the output is written back to the display</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">. </span>The colony array is 128x53 to reserve some space at the bottom for the date and time display.<br />
<br />
This is the 128x64 version. At the top of each minute the colony is reset using the date and time as a seed.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/S8pCWqpY9wM" width="425"></iframe><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br />
</div>This is the 64x32 version.<br />
<br />
<object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/kQiKve54gpM?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kQiKve54gpM?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br />
<br />
<br />
This video shows the clock displaying a birthday message and playing a tune on the hour. The date and time bar is highlighted during the birthday date to notify there is a birthday event that day. The birthday message and the person's name is shown and a tune played on the hour from 8am to 8pm. In addition the message is shown and tune played when the set or increment buttons are pressed.<br />
<br />
<object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/grVDyX3QVig?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/grVDyX3QVig?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br />
<br />
Here is the code:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4184471/Blogger%20Files/Monocron%20Life/MonochronLife64-20110515.zip"> Monochron Life Source Code 64x32</a><br />
<a href="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4184471/Blogger%20Files/Monocron%20Life/MonochronLife128-20110516.zip">Monochron Life Source Code 128x64</a><br />
<br />
My clocks collection can be found in my <a href="http://blog.planetbuckley.com/2011_02_01_archive.html">earlier blog post</a>.Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5591795693229211016.post-70993901157466115872011-03-25T17:41:00.004-04:002019-11-17T23:41:56.469-05:00I Drink the Beer I Make<div class="MsoNormal">
Time and temperature are two important parameters that are monitored during the brewing process. I developed a device that times the various brewing steps and where applicable monitors the temperature.</div>
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Here is a list of the available functions:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Brew – Starts a timer showing time for the overall brewing process. It also displays the current battery voltage and display a warning if the voltage is getting low.</li>
<li>Strike – Displays the temperature as the strike water is heated. It also displays the temperature rate of change so the end time can be predicted.</li>
<li>Mash – Tracks the time and temperature during the mashing process. A warning will be displayed and an alarm sounded if the temperature falls outside the minimum and maximum allowed range.</li>
<li>Sparge – Similar to the mashing function.</li>
<li>Boil – Tracks the time during the boiling process. An alarm is sounded for each of the hop additions.</li>
<li>Chill – Monitors the wort temperature as it is cooled and sounds an alarm when it reaches the desired temperature.</li>
<li>Alarm Toggle – This will enable or disable the alarm sound.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "symbol";"><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Display Backlight – This will turn on or turn off the display backlight.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "symbol";"><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Defaults – These are the tunable parameters such as minimum temperature and maximum temperature, mash, sparge and boil times, etc.</li>
</ul>
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I used the <a href="http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1325">Pololu SVP-324</a> for the hardware platform. The SVP makes a good general purpose project platform. The SVP has all of the needed hardware for this project except the temperature probe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIFkcxxJkmZdME9UPSmHbfN3Wm3JdLObzKKDJ2fJm0jE-Yoh7nvdz0pOixmAa3jyNrjybeWi0a9-7aw8W9HMXc5KVf4ZZA-n4YKbDfVZ8coDSiF3Qr3BcmPg2se-HEJiOU213FkTlg934/s1600/SVP-1284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIFkcxxJkmZdME9UPSmHbfN3Wm3JdLObzKKDJ2fJm0jE-Yoh7nvdz0pOixmAa3jyNrjybeWi0a9-7aw8W9HMXc5KVf4ZZA-n4YKbDfVZ8coDSiF3Qr3BcmPg2se-HEJiOU213FkTlg934/s320/SVP-1284.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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Here is a list of the hardware functions I used. There are many more features available such as motor controllers, multiple digital inputs and outputs, servo control lines and two regulated power supplies one of which is adjustable.</div>
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<ul>
<li>ATmega324PA AVR microcontroller (32 KB flash,2 KB RAM, 1 KB EEPROM)</li>
<li>16x2 LCD display with backlight</li>
<li>Three Buttons</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "symbol";"><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Buzzer</li>
<li>One of the eight analog inputs</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepsIxb9hk_oF9muuASitTXqd58FaO-zvmf6TljrjUSI6rniv90WfIgQe4zvrYPlbW2C_sn_vOudgV8Pm6zrcopFCvAbsGytu9a9cc71NONQkhtK1gYb6GAjXa7MtotBQGJbh1MbEABG8/s1600/IMG_1027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepsIxb9hk_oF9muuASitTXqd58FaO-zvmf6TljrjUSI6rniv90WfIgQe4zvrYPlbW2C_sn_vOudgV8Pm6zrcopFCvAbsGytu9a9cc71NONQkhtK1gYb6GAjXa7MtotBQGJbh1MbEABG8/s320/IMG_1027.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The temperature probe was constructed using a two foot long piece of copper tubing and a TMP36 temperature sensor. The copper tubing is the type used to run a water line to a refrigerator ice maker. The TMP36 fits perfectly inside the tube.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGJxjqcT7ZLq2vqkr_Lx4tG2-GCgYNH4AABqOQ9FZBP9oHOrkPzgVnPfSKlYbxYg3X8p3bbkRnQVZOIpQykdHkuC2Qih9WQ2JK25o3LUpFRD3D3ff4CQflErhtu3DmQFjkbUgX3pxKoI/s1600/IMG_1028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGJxjqcT7ZLq2vqkr_Lx4tG2-GCgYNH4AABqOQ9FZBP9oHOrkPzgVnPfSKlYbxYg3X8p3bbkRnQVZOIpQykdHkuC2Qih9WQ2JK25o3LUpFRD3D3ff4CQflErhtu3DmQFjkbUgX3pxKoI/s320/IMG_1028.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The steps to make the temperature probe:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 37.65pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Straighten the desired length of copper tubing.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Crimp one end and seal it with a non-lead based solder.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Use heat shrink tubing for each lead to insulate each lead soldered to the each of the three wires.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Insert the sensor and wire into the open end of the tube until it hits the bottom.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Seal the opened end with silicon sealant. This end should not be submersed in the liquid.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Wrap this end with a thermal insulation material such as foam or vinyl tubing so the probe can be handled safely when removing it from a hot liquid.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">At some point I will decide on a water resistant case for my BrewMon project. For now I am just using a plastic baggie.</span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Here is the code: BrewMon.zip</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Enjoy and if you are ever in the area visit <a href="http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/">Keystone Homebrew Supply</a>.</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
</span></div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5591795693229211016.post-50541652848495124442011-02-24T15:03:00.025-05:002011-08-11T15:35:51.914-04:00Can't Have Too Many ClocksThis is the clock that started it all, the Heathkit GC-1005 Digital Alarm Clock. I build one back in the mid -70's but unfortunately I no longer have it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTkJz4t8TEfBjLDwyvWq13XfZLY1aZbRCrEieA6xP2_3ttjQXOjM6nRD_ZxA5Sj0kELg5UFgQUMeYtGMaX9c4z9obJMKNt4FW90w8OY2gYKwSnSlrxK0-zRSYXMakZ-W1i8zY6jNSZ-U/s1600/Heathkit+GC-1005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTkJz4t8TEfBjLDwyvWq13XfZLY1aZbRCrEieA6xP2_3ttjQXOjM6nRD_ZxA5Sj0kELg5UFgQUMeYtGMaX9c4z9obJMKNt4FW90w8OY2gYKwSnSlrxK0-zRSYXMakZ-W1i8zY6jNSZ-U/s320/Heathkit+GC-1005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mcnally.cc/clock.htm">Picture from "Tom McNally's Cool Clocks"</a></div><br />
<br />
Then I needed a portable time source, so I purchased a Hamilton LED watch (I still have this!)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGMH9pDETvsxFjqHdz1bstGeGGzSqEkluK_YaAtaf-GEzggXaRm9oVMIHFCHKtTacb91fAYeIiH0je6KgigXUtIDjkSyAylATXk2cQck4IVG0ruRPrzZrVPZfupuQ1iFODRxoLbdQnviM/s1600/IMG_1013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGMH9pDETvsxFjqHdz1bstGeGGzSqEkluK_YaAtaf-GEzggXaRm9oVMIHFCHKtTacb91fAYeIiH0je6KgigXUtIDjkSyAylATXk2cQck4IVG0ruRPrzZrVPZfupuQ1iFODRxoLbdQnviM/s320/IMG_1013.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.led-forever.com/html/hamilton_led_watch.html">Hamilton LED Watch</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
This is the clock that restarted my interest in micro-controllers. I found it while reading a <a href="http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/10/02/26/1738245/Make-Your-Own-Open-Source-Retro-Arcade-Style-Clock">Slashdot article</a> about open source hardware.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgu27pyysNXWgFi0sOre0xEetnNdvtuy4gV86xTQwr6QN_jM2RnGTPJkDoUVVw7_0bGkegTmcDZiEFzvmbn9dHmWfoTbZTQQigXBVynNVekQg1139RuBXnmgi2w_PjiyZdt7-kwxpPM2k/s1600/icetubeclock_MED.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgu27pyysNXWgFi0sOre0xEetnNdvtuy4gV86xTQwr6QN_jM2RnGTPJkDoUVVw7_0bGkegTmcDZiEFzvmbn9dHmWfoTbZTQQigXBVynNVekQg1139RuBXnmgi2w_PjiyZdt7-kwxpPM2k/s320/icetubeclock_MED.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ladyada.net/make/icetube/">Adafruit Ice Tube Clock</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
Since you can not have enough clocks, I got this next.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_bLdJYTP-WITTB7lHavZJshHjCtpf0BcOym_Mf5ssd2d2HihsOqfH97pfQiWe3bvXVybVDRQTIJu3lMKtIqYvjm_qd85XFsOgrnCT243p3Cxh87me0i18xJ_ZFKH8C5VvHmkklPJmuQ/s1600/wiseclock2_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_bLdJYTP-WITTB7lHavZJshHjCtpf0BcOym_Mf5ssd2d2HihsOqfH97pfQiWe3bvXVybVDRQTIJu3lMKtIqYvjm_qd85XFsOgrnCT243p3Cxh87me0i18xJ_ZFKH8C5VvHmkklPJmuQ/s1600/wiseclock2_1.JPG" /></a></div><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://timewitharduino.blogspot.com/2010/01/wise-clock-2-new-board-and-new-kit.html">Wise Clock 2</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
But it doesn't stop there, another clock was added to my collection.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM75vMMp1Hrvbg3ql9yVbZc9P6yzSAxc_QxmmU5GJVQpiedzkssdULpdXrj1Up7bx5qHrObK7JbQUYvBoNiYgP0YrxNu5HylFmUxRZEweegun0FzoqL4vt7VwcplQEemqr6beCTmfE5SE/s1600/Bulbdial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM75vMMp1Hrvbg3ql9yVbZc9P6yzSAxc_QxmmU5GJVQpiedzkssdULpdXrj1Up7bx5qHrObK7JbQUYvBoNiYgP0YrxNu5HylFmUxRZEweegun0FzoqL4vt7VwcplQEemqr6beCTmfE5SE/s320/Bulbdial.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://evilmadscience.com/tinykitlist/156">Bulbdial Clock</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
Then Sparkfun free day came along and I won $20!<br />
<br />
I purchased:</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><ul><li><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9765">7-Segment Serial Display</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8949">RF Link 2400bps Receiver</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8946">RF Link Transmitter</a></li>
</ul><div style="text-align: left;">The display has an ATMega328 which controls all the serial communications and the 4-digit 7-segment display.<br />
<br />
<br />
Mmmmm, I can re-purpose it and make it a clock!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfd2PjY_wJMuTE_a2_Grb590P4q9aMT4-ShD6zRQYhIVp30yRKdfZLTzu3PF4l-rT_nacKzYfVmPvYi8ItZmwx3bcYdRGrp4Q1TexbiP0x-FFK3dreSg1YoxAH4rHcA2GiZKtDfkRkjy0/s1600/IMG_1001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfd2PjY_wJMuTE_a2_Grb590P4q9aMT4-ShD6zRQYhIVp30yRKdfZLTzu3PF4l-rT_nacKzYfVmPvYi8ItZmwx3bcYdRGrp4Q1TexbiP0x-FFK3dreSg1YoxAH4rHcA2GiZKtDfkRkjy0/s320/IMG_1001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The ATMega328 on this device did not have an external crystal and instead uses the built-in 8MHz oscillator. Because of this the time keeping was unstable. I connected the <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8946">RF Transmitter</a> to my Ice Tube clock and the <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8949">RF Receiver</a> to the <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9765">7-Segment display</a>. The Ice Tube clock transmits time on the hour keeping the 7-Segment Display clock in sync.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqVmafewd0AHqBPcm6XqM7bW_hyphenhyphenYebcgqWm-ovyde9ZJYKRdtJqsHFOeQqT33e9G9qiFrCT28d2p7lzWdaFf6z6dD0YQKdCOHDXzpsBIs9J1beagT-dpc8r6LBCujFhuFzTld5X-pZ94/s1600/IMG_1002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqVmafewd0AHqBPcm6XqM7bW_hyphenhyphenYebcgqWm-ovyde9ZJYKRdtJqsHFOeQqT33e9G9qiFrCT28d2p7lzWdaFf6z6dD0YQKdCOHDXzpsBIs9J1beagT-dpc8r6LBCujFhuFzTld5X-pZ94/s320/IMG_1002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here is the code for the 7-Segment Clock:<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4184471/Blogger%20Files/Clock/main.c">main.c</a></li>
<li><a href="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4184471/Blogger%20Files/Clock/7SegClock.h">7SegClock.h</a></li>
</ul>Here is the code snippet for the Ice Tube clock firmware update:<br />
<br />
<pre style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 1px dashed #999999; color: black; font-family: Andale Mono, Lucida Console, Monaco, fixed, monospace; font-size: 12px; line-height: 14px; overflow: auto; padding: 5px; width: 100%;"><code>
void time_braodcast_init(void)
{
#define BAUD_RATE 1200
#define BAUD_REG_VAL (F_CPU/16/BAUD_RATE-1)
UBRR0H = (BAUD_REG_VAL >> 8);
UBRR0L = (BAUD_REG_VAL & 0xFF);
UCSR0B = _BV(TXEN0);
UCSR0C = _BV(UPM01) | _BV(UCSZ00) | _BV(UCSZ01);
}
void usart_putchar(char c)
{
while (!(UCSR0A & _BV(UDRE0)));
UDR0 = c;
}
void broadcast_time(void)
{
// Broadcast time
char buf[7];
buf[0] = 0x00; // sync usart
buf[1] = 0xFF; // sync usart
buf[2] = 0x47; // timeset
cli();
buf[3] = (time_h > 12) ? time_h - 12 : time_h;
buf[4] = time_m;
buf[5] = time_s;
sei();
buf[6] = buf[3] +buf[4] + buf[5]; // checksum
for (int idx = 0; idx < sizeof(buf); idx++)
{
usart_putchar(buf[idx]);
}
}
</code></pre><br />
Add this code snippet just before the first button check in main():<br />
<br />
<pre style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 1px dashed #999999; color: black; font-family: Andale Mono, Lucida Console, Monaco, fixed, monospace; font-size: 12px; line-height: 14px; overflow: auto; padding: 5px; width: 100%;"><code>
// Broadcast time on the minute
if (!time_s && !time_m)
{
broadcast_time();
}
</code></pre><br />
Add the call to time_braodcast_init() before the while(1) loop in main().<br />
<br />
<br />
I started thinking that clocks are taking over my life, so... I built a clock that plays life! I modified the <a href="http://www.ladyada.net/make/monochron/">Adafruit Monochron clock</a> code with changes I made to <a href="http://daqq.eu/index.php?show=prj_game_of_life">David Gustafik's</a> work.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4hwTx1DjolBAaUATypHeHfmGWph3SEuSe7VWIHhMRDxt8Av-oqQFv3RDONt-mc6l4HHjQvZ3nvlAeocMKsWlimM_HguHG3UJ3KQlfwPZa3q0mmYWdlDjSVupqneR0TJzxYYMJCMhvLI/s1600/MonochronLife.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4hwTx1DjolBAaUATypHeHfmGWph3SEuSe7VWIHhMRDxt8Av-oqQFv3RDONt-mc6l4HHjQvZ3nvlAeocMKsWlimM_HguHG3UJ3KQlfwPZa3q0mmYWdlDjSVupqneR0TJzxYYMJCMhvLI/s320/MonochronLife.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can find the details about this modification in my <a href="http://blog.planetbuckley.com/2011/05/monochron-clock-game-of-life.html">May 7, 2011 blog post</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Honey I just want one more clock... Please...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So for Fathers Day I got the Nixie Transistor Clock which can be found on the <a href="http://www.kabtronics.com/">Kabtronics Website</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUMQkKUWMd1uuc8g3vUc3fBWxBWOkl7DDwgPr0KChOJFUsHifD9ZgJvw9mKVzf-AbjaurVkNWp6l5k1-0XXs4cYrWpqQ0zuR1dc2FIddTD7Es5nC0xfbBEA9JBN3GkAcVZyRSingOem8/s1600/NixieTransitorClock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUMQkKUWMd1uuc8g3vUc3fBWxBWOkl7DDwgPr0KChOJFUsHifD9ZgJvw9mKVzf-AbjaurVkNWp6l5k1-0XXs4cYrWpqQ0zuR1dc2FIddTD7Es5nC0xfbBEA9JBN3GkAcVZyRSingOem8/s320/NixieTransitorClock.jpg" width="244" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can find the details about this clock in my <a href="http://blog.planetbuckley.com/2011/08/discrete-time-piece.html">August 11, 2011 blog post</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>Clock Links:<br />
<a href="http://www.tubeclockdb.com/">Tube Clock Database</a><br />
<a href="http://www.transistorclock.com/">Transistor Clock</a></div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5591795693229211016.post-68243494573397089142011-02-24T14:25:00.003-05:002017-04-03T18:12:51.984-04:00Yet Another Balancing Robot<div>
This is one of my first robotics projects, yet another balancing robot.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/SnSt8FlbVHM?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: small;">After that, I gave it some freedom to move about.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/utgYAcucqes?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
Here is the code: <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/gdlbvzl9asssdw8/YaBalBot.zip?dl=0">YaBalBot.zip</a></div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13060488014016647798noreply@blogger.com6